From February 12th to 14th, Alexia Giolivo, Payan Bertrand Vice-President of Sales for Natural Ingredients, spent time in the UK visiting key Zanos customers. Embarking on a road trip from Manchester down to Hertfordshire, Alexia presented seven new products to perfumers at innovative fragrance houses with Lisa Senior from our Sales & Marketing team.
As a supplier of natural ingredients for over 160 years, Payan Bertrand are often confronted with natural forces or geopolitical situations that pose a challenge to their usual supply chain. One example of this is the disruption of the supply of Tolu Balsam from Venezuela and Colombia.
In order to resolve this and meet the demands for this sweet, treacle-like perfume ingredient, Alexia presented two substitute versions created by combining naturals such as Peru Balsam and Benzoin Sumatra. One version is more cinnamic compared to the other which gives perfumers a choice depending on the effect they want to achieve.
Sticking with sweet ingredients, a Tonka Resinoid Extra was also presented and well received. The resinoid contains less coumarin normally detected in an absolute. Notes of whisky, hay, nuts and Christmas cake were picked up in this “gourmand” ingredient created from tonka beans. It is fully soluble in alcohol and more affordable than the absolute version.
The Patchouli Aceh Absolute piqued the interest of the perfumers. Some had never experienced an absolute version of this universal fragrance. As Alexia explained, Payan Bertrand is only one of a few producers to create this quality from the imported dried leaves of their local producer in Indonesia. The result is a fresh, sparkling, slightly animalic, patchouli which “wowed” those who tested it. Thanks to a molecular distillation process, the colour is removed making it applicable in the creation of soaps and body products.
A soothing Lavandin Oil was found to be smooth, well rounded and with less camphor. This blend is the result of a fracturation of the lavandin essential oil combined with a synthetic to be used in mass market products such as air fresheners, candles and diffusers. The removal of terpenes renders it clear – another attractive feature of this new product.
Introduced last year, Payan Bertrand now offer a French origin Hyssop oil described as “flowery sweet” and armoise in feel. Extremely aromatic, this exceptional quality carries notes of clary sage and eucalyptus, with one perfumer claiming never to have smelled a better quality before.
And finally, the “gold standard” in the perfumery world – Orris Pallida Italy Concrete 15% Extra. Containing 15% irone (a common feature in the iris species), this pure concrete from the only producer in Italy, is stored for 2-3 years to increase its concentration. Deemed “excellent” and “powerful,” this slightly chocolately ingredient is used in fine fragrances due to its price tag but can be sold in quantities as low as 10 grams. A dream ingredient in a perfumer’s treasure chest!
For more information about these seven new Payan Bertrand natural ingredients as well as their full range, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call 01565 755899.